Tuesday, October 20, 2009
Homework stinks
Tuesday, October 06, 2009
La Vida Idealista
Saturday, September 12, 2009
Things I haven't seen in two years
- Squirrels - gross.
- Baby strollers
- Front lawns with crabgrass instead of walls
- Enormous, not-for-professional use four-door trucks
- Casual conversations in English
- People over 6'6" tall
- Microbrews and good beer on tap. Heck, good beer generally
- Restaurants serving tap water
- People waiting in line for tables at restaurants
- LSU football, Rangers baseball, and the Saints!
Thursday, September 10, 2009
Two years later
After two years in Ecuador with Manna Project International, I’ve hung up my cleats. I have landed safely in Shreveport, had my first (and tenth) Southern Maid Donut, my first encounter with an old Magnet High schoolmate in Barnes and Noble, and begun slowly to relearn the rules of the American road. I leave my work in Ecuador in the capable hands of Bibi, a former Peace Corps Volunteer and Tulane public health graduate who replaced me as Ecuador Country Director last month.
At the close of this two-year journey, I want to thank you and your family for your gracious support of a project you may have understood only in vague terms when it began. Admittedly, when I first asked for your help in the summer of 2007, I had only a rough outline of how I would spend the next two years of my life. Your confidence inspired and challenged me to make these two years count and pushed me along in more difficult moments.
I would like to take the opportunity to describe how your donations and my time in Ecuador were spent. Upon first landing, MPI-E’s founding team inherited a skeletal mission: to create a community of young volunteers who would live in service to a "community in need" in the developing world. We were invited to work in a valley southeast of Ecuador’s capital, Quito. We began slowly, with an after-school program and English courses.
Very quickly, we had to discard many of the assumptions we brought with us to Ecuador. This was a lower-class community, to be sure, but children were not starving. The neighborhoods of San Francisco, Rumiloma and Tena were full of people already working to better their own communities. What constructive role could a handful of young, eager, Spanish-learning Americans play here?
Our answer was simple: we could build up, connect and support those Ecuadorian institutions, networks and people already in action. We set to work connecting a locally owned cooperative to microfinance training; we began talks with a school/foster home to open a health clinic; we helped a teacher and entrepreneur develop his English curriculum. The shift from talking about communities in terms of ‘need’ to talking about them in terms of assets and resources allowed us to see people as actors rather than clients.
Missing in our grand new scheme, however, was a sensitivity to the valley’s edifices of trust and power. After a year and half, we were still an unknown quantity: the nice gringos who taught kids’ classes in the community center, but little more. In communities where traditional ideas of trust (confianza) and authority run deep, the library and teen-center which we launched in March of 2009 granted us the presence necessary to approach larger institutions, provided a platform for building personal relationships, and created spaces in which to experiment with educational programming.
The library and teen center have met enormous success, even as Bibi’s new crop of volunteers determines their role in the valley’s development. For my part, I leave Ecuador having learned how to be a plumber, mediator, volunteer coordinator, librarian, US embassy warden, disciplinarian, and entrepreneur. My own path remains an open question. I’ll be traveling in the US for two months to visit old friends and am looking toward graduate school in 2011. The last two years have prepared me for just about anything, an opportunity for which I thank you all dearly!
Un abrazo (A warm embrace),
Mark Hand
To stay in touch with MPI-Ecuador, head to openhandsdirtyfeet.blogspot.
Monday, November 03, 2008
More Galapagos Islands photos
http://picasaweb.google.com/mark.c.hand/GalapagosIslands#
Sunday, November 02, 2008
Shark-diving in volcanic craters
View Larger Map
If you can't get this map to work here, try this link.
Tuesday, October 21, 2008
Rosa (Or: Home)
Home doesn’t have to be a physical place, I've learned. Today I went home to a person – Rosa – who for me personifies that concept in a way that I hadn’t realized.
Rosa, mother of one of UBECI's co-founders, is about about sixty-five and served as my first mother in Ecuador. When I arrived in August 2007 I knew limited Spanish, immediately landed a level three sinus infection,* and was fitfully processing the previous six months as a social worker in Shreveport as I prepared for my team coming in September. Rosa listened, carefully. She also did enough talking to make me realize that this tiny old woman who guts her own guinea pigs, uses every drop of water at least four times before giving it to the pigs and is just now learning how to read, might be one of the sharpest, wisest, most determined human being I have ever met.
And for me, she is home. Not having visited in about six months, I had developed that Catholic know of guilt in my stomach that starts to form when you haven’t visited your grandmother in too long. So when Fabián failed to show up for our meeting this morning, I swallowed hard and pointed my nose to Rosa’s.
Thankfully, Rosa did not berate me for not showing my face more often, and seemed genuinely grateful to see me and take a break from feeding the pigs. We talked about Obama (“Have you heard about his family? He used to be poor, like us!), the Rafael Correa flag outside her door and what I thought about the new president, the dwarf beans from her son in Italy that she is going to try and plant soon, and the old grandfather who se fue a otro mundo (“went to the other side,” loosely) three months ago. We laughed at the social work stories I told her over a year ago, and she asked if I could find her the telephone number for Ecuador’s Vice President. He’s handicapped, and Rose thinks if she could get him on the phone, that maybe he’d know how to help her handicapped son, too. If he knows what’s good for him – or if he takes the time to get to know Rosa - he probably will.
Monday, September 29, 2008
Finished!
Tuesday, September 09, 2008
One small step
Beer that tastes like beer. Eureka!
Imagine my surprise and delight, then, when Dunc informed me that the new corner store was selling Budweiser - the King of Beers - Grandpa's nectar - for 89 cents a can. And, to top it off, the purchase of a six pack comes with a free Budweiser glass.
I know Budweiser is bad, too. And I know it's Belgian. But sometimes little pieces of home, however processed or foreign-owned, can make an afternoon.
Monday, September 08, 2008
Mark at the pulpit
"Good morning to all of you, and thank you to Fernando* and you all for inviting us her today. Thank you also for all the warmth you’ve already shown us. My name is Mark, and I belong to the organization Manna Project International – or, in the Spanish which I’m still learning bit by bit, el Proyecto Internacional de Maná. I imagine that some of you have already seen us, walking around the neighborhood, giving surveys, or maybe lost like two of my friends were last night after they left here.**
"I’m here this morning for three reasons: first, because Jocelyn made me. Although I’m supposedly the boss of this group, we men with titles know that it’s women with strength that make us do things!
"Second, I’m here to explain a little bit about our organization. We are a young organization, made by young people, nonreligious, apolitical and nongovernmental. As an organization, we believe that global communities, like those here, already have the resources, abilities, and ancient and modern knowledge that they need. As a result, let me say that we are not here to “help” you, because we don’t see you as people who need help. We are here to build upon that which you are already doing to advance your communities.
"Because of this, we talk of our work in terms of three axes: empower individuals, strengthen institutions, and build networks. With respect to the first, we’ll be offering courses like English and women’s exercise that Jocelyn talked about yesterday. With respect to the second, we’re working, for example, with Aliñambi to help them open up their clinic to the entire neighborhood. And with networks, we hope to connect local individuals and institutions with both national and international resources.
"The third reason I am here to today is to meet you. We believe, myself personally and we as an organization, that at the heart of any positive change are individuals and personal relationships. My goal is that we would see each other not as “others” but as brothers and sisters – or, given our gringo-ness, at least as cousins.
"Thank you again, thank you very much for the invitation to come here. We look forward to working with you all."
* The pastor’s name was actually Francisco. Oops.
** Jocelyn and Serena had gone to church on Saturday, then gotten lost on the way home.
Buenos días, Buenos días cono todos. Les agradecemos a Fernando y todos ustedes por invitarnos acá este mañana, y por todo el cariño que ya nos han dado. Soy Marco, y pertenezco a la fundación Manna Project International – o, en el castellano que aun aprendo pite pite, el Proyecto Internacional de Maná. Creo que ya algunos de ustedes nos han visto, andando por acá, dando encuestas, o tal vez un poco perdidos como se encontraron dos de mis amigas anoche después de salir de esta iglesia.
Estoy acá esta bonita mañana por tres razones: primero, porque mi amiga Jocelyn me mandó. Aunque supuestamente el jefe de este grupo, los hombres que tenemos títulos sabemos que a veces son las mujeres con fuerza que nos mandan!
Segundo, estoy acá para explicarles un poco de la fundación nuestra. Somos una fundación joven, hecha por jóvenes, no religiosa, no política, no gubernamental. Como fundación, creemos que comunidades globales, como estas acá, ya tienen los recursos, capacidades, y conocimiento antiguo y moderno que necesitan. Por eso, dejadme decir que no estamos acá para ayudarles, porque no les vemos como gente que necesita ayuda. Si estamos acá para fortalecer todo que ya están haciendo los de acá para avanzar sus comunidades.
Por eso, hablamos de los tres ejes de nuestro trabajo: empoderar a individuos, fortalecer a instituciones, y forjar a redes. Con respecto al primero, vamos a armar clases como los de ingles y ejercicios de que habló ayer Jocelyn. Con respecto a instituciones, estamos trabajando, por ejemplo, con la escuela Aliñambi a abrir su clínica de salud a todo el barrio. Y con redes, esperamos conectar individuos y instituciones locales con recursos internacionales y nacionales también.
La tercera razón para que estamos acá hoy día es para conocer a ustedes. Creemos, yo como persona y también nosotros como fundación, que al fondo de cualquier cambio positivo son individuos, y relaciones personales. Mi fin es que nos vemos al otro no como “el otro,” sino un ñaño o ñaña nuestra o (como somos gringos), por lo menos como primos.
Gracias otra vez, les damos gracias por su invitación a venir acá, y tenemos ganas de trabajar con ustedes.
Sunday, September 07, 2008
Mark the Killer
As the resident dad of MPIE, I was less than excited about our new pets: "Where will you keep them? What do they eat? Do you have a plan for when they're not cute anymore?" And yes, I had already looked up websites on how to butcher ducks.
That said, I wasn't so upset about our new friends that I was homicidal. But then I stood up to go grab a beer, the pink one decided that a good spot to hang out would be right underneath where my right foot was headed. Since my (sandal-clad) foot didn't cast a mortal blow, I had to finish the job with a kitchen knife. I'm not sure Serena will ever forgive me, and I'm slightly traumatized myself.
Rest in peace, little artificially pink guy.
Building your core takes more than sit-ups (wisdom from Suzi)
First, Suzi stressed the importance of reinventing the wheel. I've turned that over some, and find it to be a pretty sharp insight. If a local homeless shelter is a dump run by entrenched politicos, then a young person might be better off starting over rather than trying to resurrect that corpse. If a computer operating system begins to grey, maybe it's time for a smarter one. If you're clanking around on spokes - or now, on a material that is contributing to global warming - maybe somebody should be reinventing that wheel.
Second, Suzi emphasized the importance of building up one's core - not physically, but spiritually. We had been discussing the possibility of my heading to graduate school before the decade's end, and Suzi said, "Mark, one thing I've found is that it is not people's education or experience that determine how they act - it's who they are, at their core, that determines that." Maybe it's time for me to do some more core building. Like any good nerd, my first step in that process will be some background reading.
Thanks for listening,
Mark
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*Really fun, family-oriented place with bad pizza.
Friday, August 22, 2008
You can flush toilet paper here! (and other notes from the field)
- You're not only allowed but expected to flush TP here. That's just weird.
- Cars are actually predisposed to stop for pedestrians.
- They actually check IDs at bars in the US.
- I can walk around in my friend Justin's house barefoot without having to wash my feet afterward.
- Nobody here uses cash. Where did all the money go?
- I'm awkwardly unpracticed at exchanging pleasantries with strangers in English, but that doesn't matter much because Americans don't really exchange pleasantries.
- Lots and lots of people speak Spanish in Washington DC.
- There are a lot of very pretty people in the US, and a lot of very large ones, too.
- The Olympics are awesome.
- The internet is fast here! I can download the entire Economist audio edition and update the software on my computer before I'm finished with my cereal. And the Google loads immediately.
- Mark v. Wendy's Baconator: first round, Baconator.
Thursday, August 21, 2008
Hello from Colombia
1) Colombians and Ecuadorians look nothing alike.
2) The quickness with which Avianca handled an airplane simply not showing up suggests to me some regularity with airplanes not showing up.
Wednesday, August 20, 2008
The New York Times loves Quito.
Meals and Wheels on Avenue of the Volcanoes
The article has some good points. Ecuadorian street food is great, and the city of Baños is most certainly the tourist capital of Ecuador. BUT I have to take issue with the idea that all Ecuadorian buses have air conditioning. Also, do not pay a dollar for that ice cream - 3o cents should do it.Tuesday, August 19, 2008
Barack Obama, MPI and Colombia
"...will focus on bottom-up development by concentrating on micro-finance, vocational training and community development programs."Over the last couple months, the MPI-Ecuador team has been working on solidifying our approach to community development. Our three areas of focus:
- Empower individuals through programs that develop their capacities to advance economically and educationally, and to become leaders in their communities.
- Strengthen institutions by working alongside them to introduce best practices, connect them to national and international resources, and expand their services.
- Build networks by creating stronger links among community members, connecting people to local institutions, and promoting inter-institutional collaboration.
Oppose the Colombia Free Trade Deal: While the Colombia Free Trade Agreement has some labor and environmental standards, these protections are undermined by persistent violence in Colombia. Labor protections remain useless in an environment where union leaders are routinely assassinated. Barack Obama will work with Colombia to bring the perpetrators to justice and protect labor activists.What this position ignores is that labor union leaders have a lower rate of assassination than Colombians at large, and that the current Colombian administration has overseen a vertiginous drop in violence in Colombia. That doesn't speak to Colombia's safety, but it does undercuts the argument that labor union leaders are assassinated "routinely." And in a country as shorn as Colombia, President Uribe's Weberian monopoly on violence, finally bearing fruit, may be the only way to transition the country out of its four decades of guerilla warfare. Punishing Colombian businesses and consumers by cutting off trade hardly inspires Hope and Change.
For a more professional analysis of Barack Obama's somewhat disconnected Latin American foreign policy, check out this article from Foreign Policy in Focus.
Friday, August 15, 2008
Posting this may be illegal
The good life
Jul 31st 2008 | QUITO
From The Economist print edition
For the president and for lawyers
Correa dictates his socialist credo
IF ONLY size, novelty and good intentions were everything when it came to constitutions, Ecuador would be a paradise. The document approved on July 25th by a Constituent Assembly dominated by supporters of Rafael Correa, the leftist president, is a 444-article behemoth. If approved by a referendum on September 28th, it will become Ecuador’s 20th constitution and the third in as many decades. It is nothing if not politically correct: it bans foreign military bases, promises a “just wage” and enshrines manifold rights, including that to sumak kawsay, or “good living” in Quichua, one of two indigenous languages whose use it now makes official alongside Spanish. Whether it will improve real life in a chronically misgoverned country is another matter.
Mr Correa insists that it will. He says the new constitution puts an end to “partyocracy”, “neoliberalism”, and the rule of economic “mafias”. One of his main aims is to reduce the clashes between the executive and a powerful but fragmented legislature that has seen the past three elected presidents fail to finish their term. The new text does this by substantially increasing presidential power. The president will be able to dismiss the legislature. Mr Correa’s nominees seem sure to form a majority on a powerful new Constitutional Court.
The constitution officially declares Ecuador to have a “social and solidaristic” economy. It gives state-owned companies a dominant role in oil, mining, electricity, transport and telecommunications, reflecting the government’s mistrust of the private sector. “The market is an excellent servant but a terrible master,” says Mr Correa.
This socialist pitch is popular in Ecuador largely because the country was scarred by an economic collapse in 1999, which featured a mishandled banking crisis, hyperinflation and the adoption of the dollar as the currency.
Opponents of Mr Correa worry that the constitution imposes an earlier failed economic model on the country. Although the state already controls much of an oil-dominated economy, the private operators of a handful of water utilities and airports face an uncertain future. The new constitution bans international arbitration and gives priority to local investors over foreigners. So it is certain to drive away almost all foreign investment. The Central Bank will come under presidential control: that paves the way for a possible future abandonment of the dollar in favour of a new local currency, and for the potential massaging of economic statistics.
Mr Correa, a youngish Catholic economist, who took office 18 months ago, remains popular. High oil prices have given him money to spend on social programmes. Public investment is running at twice last year’s level. He is likely to win the referendum, and a fresh election next year. But his success depends on oil money. By writing into it his personal political creed, Mr Correa has almost certainly guaranteed that Ecuador’s latest constitution will not long outlast his tenure of the presidency. And if Ecuadoreans do see much of the good life, they are likely to have to pay for it dearly in the future.
Sunday, August 10, 2008
Ecuador v. Chevron, Part II
When I studied abroad at St. Andrews, I took an International Political Economy course with Ben Thirkell-White. In addition to mountains of information, one of the most useful tools I took away was the idea of contrasting narratives. Every story has at least two versions, every debate at least two sides.
That's a pretty compelling narrative, at least literarily speaking. It sounds like a plot for a Michael Moore film, or a companion to Blood Diamond.Narrative number one:
For the last fifty years, big bad Chevron has been operating, with total impunity, across the globe. In Myanmar, they constructed a pipeline that has provided the financial life support to the vicious Burmese junta. In Ecuador, they carelessly dumped/leaked 18 billion tons of toxic waste into streams and lakes, contaminating the only drinking sources in an isolated area the size of Rhode Island. Now that it looks like the latter decision might pinch, Chevron has ramped up its lobbying efforts in DC, pressuring the Bush administrationto punish Ecuador if they don't squash the case.
The key question, of course, is: How then to tell which is more accurate? More background information welcome.Narrative numero dos:
In the tradition of American litigiousness, a handful of high-powered American lawyers have convinced a couple of Ecuadorian NGOs that they can pretty easily suck some cash out of Chevron for alleged contamination of lands in Ecuador by Texaco, which Chevron purchased in 2001. Ecuador's schizophrenic political system makes it as likely as not that a friendly administration will award damages in an otherwise frivolous case. If the coin flips well, the lawyers and NGOs (not the indigenous folks, mind you) will be swimming in cash.
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Aug 12 update:
An article from CNN yesterday suggests that Ecuadorian president Rafael Correa is resisting involving the Ecuadorian executive branch in the case (suggesting that Chevron's lobbying in DC has proven, or will prove, ineffective).

